Pond Fountain Info

When should we use an Ultraviolet light?

2007-02-01T10:20:00.000-08:00

An ultraviolet light is good for ridding a pond of pea-soup algae. It is very important to have a properly sized light because if the exposure time is too small, the system will not be very effective. The size of the UV light is based on how much water passes through it.
We like Emperor Aquatic lights because they have a long life. Many other lights are rated at peak (new) performance rather than at 60% lamp strength.U/V lights will not work with string algae since it does not pass through it.

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2006-12-26T09:23:00.000-08:00

42.

I am adding bacterium but my water is still green. What is wrong?
There can be several factors why your water is still green even with adding bacteria. Most ponds will experience an occasional algae bloom when the water temperature jumps up in a heat spell. Also, you need to backwash the filter regularly. See question XX regarding filters.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-18T09:32:00.000-08:00

My neighbor does not add bacteria and his pond looks good. Do I need to add bacteria?

There are several parts to your question. See Question 30 regarding the difference between water quality and water clarity. Your neighbor’s pond may look good now but may be harmful to the fish. Also, over time he will experience a buildup of sludge, nutrients and toxins. When there is too much, he will probably have sick fish and a lot of work to do.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Founain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(36)

2006-12-18T09:31:00.000-08:00

My neighbor does not add bacteria and his pond looks good. Do I need to add bacteria?

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Founain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-11T09:15:00.000-08:00

40. OK. So what is the Nitrogen Cycle?

Nitrogen, in various combinations, is the building block of all living things. Nitrogen cannot be made or destroyed. It only changes combinations. The Nitrogen Cycle describes the process were nitrogen is taken up in plants from the soil. It becomes part of the plant. When the plant dies or sheds its leaves, nitrogen is returned to the soil.

In ponds care, we are concerned with the Nitrogen Cycle because some for of the nitrogen are toxic to the fish. As the organics from fish waste and dead plant material starts to decompose, it becomes ammonia. As the ammonia breaks down it becomes nitrites. The nitrites break down into nitrates. High levels of ammonia and nitrites can be toxic and can be deadly for the fish. Nitrates are safer and are in a form that can be taken up by plants.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, plese check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pors.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-04T09:44:00.000-08:00

39. Why add bacteria? Doesn’t it occur naturally?

Yes, there are a multitude of types of bacteria found naturally in ponds. To maximize our chance of maintaining a healthy pond, though, we add specialized bacteria rather than taking ‘pot luck’. It is much like making sour dough bread. If you mix flour and water together and expose it to the air, you will get some leavening. However, the best sourdoughs are made with cultures that are prized and hoarded.

Bacteria and algae, like most plants, are temperature dependent. This is why we tell you not to add bacteria when the water temperature gets down into the mid 50’s. You are wasting your money.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountian Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-27T09:34:00.000-08:00

38. What does bacteria do?

Bacteria are an essential component in breaking fish waste and decomposing organic. This process is part of the Nitrogen Cycle we kind of learned about in high school. As the organics break down they form ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to the fish. One group of bacteria breakdown the ammonia into nitrites: which are also toxic if they build up. Another group of bacteria breaks the nitrites into nitrates. These nitrates are not toxic and are available to plants

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-20T09:31:00.000-08:00

38. What other maintenance is there besides adding bacteria?

Besides adding bacteria to the pond, the most important maintenance is to prevent, or remove, organic debris from the pond. This may include trimming vegetation, deadheading (removing dead flowers and leaves) and removing the debris from the bottom of the pond with a net. This is why we put in skimmers that collect 95% of the floating matter that falls into the pond. Regardless of what kind of filter you have, submersible or out-of-pond, you will have to clean it. It can be very messy to clean a submersible filter so we prefer an out-of-pond filter especially if it has a backwash valve.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(31)

2006-11-13T09:34:00.000-08:00

MAINTENANC

37. My wife says I don’t have the personality to keep up the maintenance on a pond. How much maintenance is there with a pond?

Some of my best business decisions were to walk away from two types of potential pond owners. When I go to look at a backyard and see that nothing is being maintained, I automatically raise my bid, by a lot. If they don’t take of anything else, why would I expect them to take care of a pond? If the pond is not maintained it is bad advertising for the industry and me. Also, I would expect a lot of callbacks because ‘the equipment must not be working properly’ because the water is green when, in fact, they haven’t done a thing to the pond for 4 months. I don’t need the headache.

The second types of people I try to avoid are those who cannot accept any dirt, anywhere, any time. A pond, by its nature, has dirt. If someone can’t handle seeing any dirt, they should not have a pond. It will drive them, and me, crazy. See previous question.

Pond maintenance includes removing fallen leaves, cleaning the filter, adding bacteria and occasional (yearly) draining and cleaning. Also, plants need to be maintained. Other questions address pond maintenance in more depth.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please checke out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-06T10:11:00.000-08:00

36. What other water chemistry factors affect the effectiveness of the bacteria?

I have a construction background and do not profess to know all about water chemistry. Water chemistry is very complicated and varies with season, locale and many other factors. The three things alga needs to grow are nutrients, sunlight and temperature. Talk with knowledgeable shop owners and other pond owners.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please ckeck out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-10-30T09:25:00.000-08:00

35. How do I know if I have chlorine or chloramines in my water?

If you have municipal water you most certainly have one or the other. Both are used to kill any bacteria in the water. Call your water agency to find out. The only real difference for our purpose is that chlorine evaporates faster than does chloramine. Both need to be treated with a chlorine remover before fish are put in the water and when there is a water change. If you use a garden hose to rinse the sand in your filter, you will kill the bacteria and need to start anew

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(28)

2006-10-23T09:26:00.000-07:00

34. How do I adjust my pH?

There are easy to use chemicals to adjust pH up or down. Most pet stores will have something. Be sure to adjust the pH by no more than .01 up or down on any one day. The pH change is not bad for fish but a rapid change may put stress on them.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-10-17T09:34:00.000-07:00

33. How is pH tested?

Two common ways of testing pH are strips and digital meters. The strips are cheap but I find them fairly inaccurate. The digital testers get calibrated occasionally with laboratory quality water of a know pH. If you have water that has high of low pH in might be worth the cost of a digital tester to insure the expensive bacteria you put in the pond had a chance to work.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(26)

2006-10-09T09:29:00.000-07:00

32. How does pH affect the effectiveness of the bacteria?

It is very important for the pH (acidity) to be between 6.5 & 8.2. If it is not the bacteria will die or just not thrive. It is essential that the pH be in this range. There are products to raise or lower the pH of pond water. Be careful to change the pH 0.2 at a time. A rapid change of pH is bad for the fish.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-10-04T09:33:00.000-07:00

31. What is pH of the water?

The acidity of water (or most chemicals) is where it places on the pH scale- like degrees for temperature. A pH of 7.0 is neutral- that is it is neither acidic nor alkaline. A pH of 10 is very alkaline (basic) such as baking soda. On the other hand, a pH of 4.0 is very acidic (also called basic) such as vinegar.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-09-25T09:30:00.000-07:00

30. What is the difference between water quality and water clarity?

Water quality and water clarity are often, and easily, confused. The answer to your question depends upon one’s perspective. For a swimming pool, we want clear water that is void of bacteria and other microscopic life. We usually try to achieve this by adding chlorine or other chemicals. For a fishpond, however, this probably means instant death.

Water quality in a fishpond means a healthy environment for the fish where chemicals such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are within a range that is healthy for the fish. As the algae multiplies, it consumes these chemicals from the water that otherwise would build up and become toxic to the fish. One of the complications is that we also want to see the fish. With pea soup algae, for example, the water quality may be very good but we still cannot see the fish. In contrast, string algae that grows off the rocks takes up nutrients like pea soup algae but usually leaves the water very clear.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please checke our website at Pond ann Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-09-18T09:40:00.000-07:00

29. Can the rocks go on the bottom as well as on the shelf?
Yes rocks can cover the entire pond. We often do this with a mix of large gravel and cobble (3-6”). We always mortar them in place. See question

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

WATER CHEMISTRY

Again, my background is in construction. What I’ve learned about water chemistry is piecemeal and incomplete. If anyone has any difference of opinion or spies incorrect information, please contact me so it can be corrected.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-09-11T09:33:00.000-07:00

28. What are the advantages and disadvantages of concreting in the rock?

When you say ‘concreting’, I assume you actually mean using mortar. Mortar is cement and sand like concrete but doesn’t have any gravel like concrete.

There are some obvious differences between mortaring and not mortaring the rocks in place. There is the up front cost of the mortar and extra labor. Also, mortared rock is usually much more stable than dry-stacked (mortar less) rock. The short-term and long-term effect of the mortar on the pond health is subtler. I feel the mortar plays an important role in pond health by taking up the spaces between rocks that would fill up with debris over the long haul. This debris is usually rich in nutrients that are difficult to trap in the filter where we can remove them from the system. On the other hand, mortar contains lime that raises the pH (alkalinity/acidity progression). Maintaining a balanced pH is important for water quality and algae prevention. Therefore, if mortar (or any concrete product) is used in large amounts, it may is necessary to treat the water with pH Down to maintain the proper range. As the lime leaches out over time, it will not be necessary to balance the pH to counteract the mortar. However, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH depending upon water chemistry and other factors. There is more on pH below.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-09-05T13:52:00.000-07:00

ROCKS

27. What kind of rocks do you use?

Because we are in the business of building ponds and fountains, I feel particularly lucky to be living an hour north of San Francisco. My favorite is a native rock called Sonoma fieldstone. It has been used for buildings and rock walls since the time of early settlers. It comes in sizes from softball size to boulders weighing 20 tons. It is roundish, verses flat. The biggest attraction, beside it’s cheap, is that it is irregular shaped and covered on one side with moss and lichens. When used in a water feature, it looks like it is alive and has been there for a long time.

To see what kind of rock you have available may require a field trip to some building material handlers. The shape of the rock you pick is very important. Each type has its pluses and minuses in how it works for a pond and cascade. Round rock, like a river wash, are inherently not very stable as compared to flat stone. On the other hand, you may need multiple courses (layers) of flat rock to the height you need on the shelf.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-08-29T09:45:00.000-07:00

26. How do I hide the liner around the edges?

Hiding the liner around the edges is one area where many pond kit instructions are very deficient. The most common way is to excavate our step around the pond about 3 inches below the intended water level. Often this shelf is 1 foot wide but this can be varied to fit the size of stone to be used. This shelf needs to be fairly level, within 1/2" inch. On the outside of the shelf, there needs to be dirt mounded up about 4 inches high. As the liner is put in the hole and on to the shelf it needs to drape over the ‘backsplash’. With this arrangement, we can fill the pond to about 2 inches above the shelf. This way, the bottoms of the rocks have their feet wet and there is no liner visible above the water line.

A common omission in pond kit instructions is this need for the liner to be vertical behind the rocks. If we did not have one, then we would not be able to have the rocks partly submerged without have water leak out from under the rocks.
There are other ways to hide the liner. Decks can be cantilevered over an edge of the pond. Care should still be taken to secure the line with the ‘backsplash’. Gradual slopes into the pond can be covered with gravel. This gravel should be buried to half its depth in mortar to prevent it from sliding into the pond.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountian Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(19)

2006-08-21T09:24:00.000-07:00

25. What are some tips on putting in the liner?

Putting in the liner is relatively easy if the pond design is not too complicated and the prep work has been done properly . Open the liner enough to check on the orientation of the roll. Place the liner on the side of the pond. With two or three people, unfold the liner over the pond excavation. If you need to move it from side to side, pick up the edge on the side where you want more material. We want to get air under the liner and not just drag it. All together now, pull the liner up to shoulder level three times. On the third time, gently pull the liner where you want it.

When the liner lies on the bottom of the pond, start pulling it down toward the middle until all the voids behind the liner are removed. It is not necessary to put water in the pond to get the liner to conform to the shape. We want a little slack in the liner. We don’t want the liner taut. Start on the middle of the long sides of the pond being sure the liner conforms closely to the shape of the hole but is not tight. Put a rock or two on each side to hold it in place. Do the same with the short sides.

The corners are a bit more difficult than the sides. You may want to trim off some of the excess in the corners but be sure not to trim off too much. We are going to make folds in the liner much like pleats in skirts. It is necessary to ‘read’ the liner to see where it naturally wants to have pleats. If you try to place them elsewhere, you will be fighting the liner. Start at the bottom and work up toward the top. All pleats should go up and down, not diagonally. In tight corners, there may be two or three pleats. Once you have the corner in place, put a rock or two on the liner to hold it in place. Once you have all four corners done, you may want to redo the first corner

For more information bout Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

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Jim Wilder

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2006-08-14T10:01:00.000-07:00

24. Do gopher eat liners?

I have seen gophers go through Permanlon but not through PVC of Hypolon. Another advantage of using Miri-Fi is that gophers don’t like it.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(17)

2006-08-09T13:02:00.000-07:00

LINER

23.What else do you to prepare the hole for the liner?

Preparing for the liner is very important. Once the hole has been shaped, carefully check for any sharp rocks or roots that are cut off and sticking into the hole. If you have to take out big rocks, you can back fill with clean, damp soil or mortar. We drape Miri-Fi (available at most places that sell rock and mortar; used in French drains) on the shelf and step sides. A 1/4” of sand can be placed on the shelf to hold it in place. You can also use duct tape. The bottom can be covered with sand and spread smoothly to fill any voids and corners.

Some people use old carpet, carpet backing or other materials. I don’t because of storage space and the off chance there is a stray staple.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros..

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-07-17T11:07:00.000-07:00

22. How do we hide the liner around the edge?

When we excavate the pond hole, the next thing is to cut a step around the entire pond. This step should be about a foot wide and about 3 inches deep. If you like, you can add dirt around the perimeter to make the 3-inch rise. The final product should look like a backsplash on the kitchen counter. The line will go on the step and over the backsplash. When we place rocks on the ledge and have the water level about 1.5” above the shelf, all the rocks will have their feet wet and none of the liner is visible above the water level. Be sure to include in you square footage when you dig the hole. It is a lot easier to dig more than to replace the dirt.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-07-10T12:47:00.000-07:00

CONSTRUCTION EXCAVATION

21. What do I do with the dirt I dig out of the hole? Can I use it for the waterfall?

You may be able to use the dirt for the waterfall but take care. One of the things most pond instructions don’t say is that if you want to use the dirt for the waterfall it needs to be well compacted as you place it for the waterfall. No, you cannot throw all the dirt in a pile and then compact it. You need to put the dirt in shallow lifts (layers) of 2-3 inches and compact it before you cover it. Big road equipment usually only work with lifts of 6” to ensure compaction.

If you don’t compact the dirt, it will settle naturally over time and you may find the water running backwards or sideways out of the waterfall

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

Thank you!

Jim Wilder