Pond Fountain Info

When should we use an Ultraviolet light?

2007-02-01T10:20:00.000-08:00

An ultraviolet light is good for ridding a pond of pea-soup algae. It is very important to have a properly sized light because if the exposure time is too small, the system will not be very effective. The size of the UV light is based on how much water passes through it.
We like Emperor Aquatic lights because they have a long life. Many other lights are rated at peak (new) performance rather than at 60% lamp strength.U/V lights will not work with string algae since it does not pass through it.

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2006-12-26T09:23:00.000-08:00

42.

I am adding bacterium but my water is still green. What is wrong?
There can be several factors why your water is still green even with adding bacteria. Most ponds will experience an occasional algae bloom when the water temperature jumps up in a heat spell. Also, you need to backwash the filter regularly. See question XX regarding filters.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-18T09:32:00.000-08:00

My neighbor does not add bacteria and his pond looks good. Do I need to add bacteria?

There are several parts to your question. See Question 30 regarding the difference between water quality and water clarity. Your neighbor’s pond may look good now but may be harmful to the fish. Also, over time he will experience a buildup of sludge, nutrients and toxins. When there is too much, he will probably have sick fish and a lot of work to do.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Founain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(36)

2006-12-18T09:31:00.000-08:00

My neighbor does not add bacteria and his pond looks good. Do I need to add bacteria?

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Founain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-11T09:15:00.000-08:00

40. OK. So what is the Nitrogen Cycle?

Nitrogen, in various combinations, is the building block of all living things. Nitrogen cannot be made or destroyed. It only changes combinations. The Nitrogen Cycle describes the process were nitrogen is taken up in plants from the soil. It becomes part of the plant. When the plant dies or sheds its leaves, nitrogen is returned to the soil.

In ponds care, we are concerned with the Nitrogen Cycle because some for of the nitrogen are toxic to the fish. As the organics from fish waste and dead plant material starts to decompose, it becomes ammonia. As the ammonia breaks down it becomes nitrites. The nitrites break down into nitrates. High levels of ammonia and nitrites can be toxic and can be deadly for the fish. Nitrates are safer and are in a form that can be taken up by plants.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, plese check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pors.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-12-04T09:44:00.000-08:00

39. Why add bacteria? Doesn’t it occur naturally?

Yes, there are a multitude of types of bacteria found naturally in ponds. To maximize our chance of maintaining a healthy pond, though, we add specialized bacteria rather than taking ‘pot luck’. It is much like making sour dough bread. If you mix flour and water together and expose it to the air, you will get some leavening. However, the best sourdoughs are made with cultures that are prized and hoarded.

Bacteria and algae, like most plants, are temperature dependent. This is why we tell you not to add bacteria when the water temperature gets down into the mid 50’s. You are wasting your money.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountian Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-27T09:34:00.000-08:00

38. What does bacteria do?

Bacteria are an essential component in breaking fish waste and decomposing organic. This process is part of the Nitrogen Cycle we kind of learned about in high school. As the organics break down they form ammonia. Ammonia is toxic to the fish. One group of bacteria breakdown the ammonia into nitrites: which are also toxic if they build up. Another group of bacteria breaks the nitrites into nitrates. These nitrates are not toxic and are available to plants

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-20T09:31:00.000-08:00

38. What other maintenance is there besides adding bacteria?

Besides adding bacteria to the pond, the most important maintenance is to prevent, or remove, organic debris from the pond. This may include trimming vegetation, deadheading (removing dead flowers and leaves) and removing the debris from the bottom of the pond with a net. This is why we put in skimmers that collect 95% of the floating matter that falls into the pond. Regardless of what kind of filter you have, submersible or out-of-pond, you will have to clean it. It can be very messy to clean a submersible filter so we prefer an out-of-pond filter especially if it has a backwash valve.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(31)

2006-11-13T09:34:00.000-08:00

MAINTENANC

37. My wife says I don’t have the personality to keep up the maintenance on a pond. How much maintenance is there with a pond?

Some of my best business decisions were to walk away from two types of potential pond owners. When I go to look at a backyard and see that nothing is being maintained, I automatically raise my bid, by a lot. If they don’t take of anything else, why would I expect them to take care of a pond? If the pond is not maintained it is bad advertising for the industry and me. Also, I would expect a lot of callbacks because ‘the equipment must not be working properly’ because the water is green when, in fact, they haven’t done a thing to the pond for 4 months. I don’t need the headache.

The second types of people I try to avoid are those who cannot accept any dirt, anywhere, any time. A pond, by its nature, has dirt. If someone can’t handle seeing any dirt, they should not have a pond. It will drive them, and me, crazy. See previous question.

Pond maintenance includes removing fallen leaves, cleaning the filter, adding bacteria and occasional (yearly) draining and cleaning. Also, plants need to be maintained. Other questions address pond maintenance in more depth.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please checke out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-11-06T10:11:00.000-08:00

36. What other water chemistry factors affect the effectiveness of the bacteria?

I have a construction background and do not profess to know all about water chemistry. Water chemistry is very complicated and varies with season, locale and many other factors. The three things alga needs to grow are nutrients, sunlight and temperature. Talk with knowledgeable shop owners and other pond owners.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please ckeck out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(29)

2006-10-30T09:25:00.000-08:00

35. How do I know if I have chlorine or chloramines in my water?

If you have municipal water you most certainly have one or the other. Both are used to kill any bacteria in the water. Call your water agency to find out. The only real difference for our purpose is that chlorine evaporates faster than does chloramine. Both need to be treated with a chlorine remover before fish are put in the water and when there is a water change. If you use a garden hose to rinse the sand in your filter, you will kill the bacteria and need to start anew

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(28)

2006-10-23T09:26:00.000-07:00

34. How do I adjust my pH?

There are easy to use chemicals to adjust pH up or down. Most pet stores will have something. Be sure to adjust the pH by no more than .01 up or down on any one day. The pH change is not bad for fish but a rapid change may put stress on them.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(27)

2006-10-17T09:34:00.000-07:00

33. How is pH tested?

Two common ways of testing pH are strips and digital meters. The strips are cheap but I find them fairly inaccurate. The digital testers get calibrated occasionally with laboratory quality water of a know pH. If you have water that has high of low pH in might be worth the cost of a digital tester to insure the expensive bacteria you put in the pond had a chance to work.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(26)

2006-10-09T09:29:00.000-07:00

32. How does pH affect the effectiveness of the bacteria?

It is very important for the pH (acidity) to be between 6.5 & 8.2. If it is not the bacteria will die or just not thrive. It is essential that the pH be in this range. There are products to raise or lower the pH of pond water. Be careful to change the pH 0.2 at a time. A rapid change of pH is bad for the fish.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(25)

2006-10-04T09:33:00.000-07:00

31. What is pH of the water?

The acidity of water (or most chemicals) is where it places on the pH scale- like degrees for temperature. A pH of 7.0 is neutral- that is it is neither acidic nor alkaline. A pH of 10 is very alkaline (basic) such as baking soda. On the other hand, a pH of 4.0 is very acidic (also called basic) such as vinegar.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(24)

2006-09-25T09:30:00.000-07:00

30. What is the difference between water quality and water clarity?

Water quality and water clarity are often, and easily, confused. The answer to your question depends upon one’s perspective. For a swimming pool, we want clear water that is void of bacteria and other microscopic life. We usually try to achieve this by adding chlorine or other chemicals. For a fishpond, however, this probably means instant death.

Water quality in a fishpond means a healthy environment for the fish where chemicals such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are within a range that is healthy for the fish. As the algae multiplies, it consumes these chemicals from the water that otherwise would build up and become toxic to the fish. One of the complications is that we also want to see the fish. With pea soup algae, for example, the water quality may be very good but we still cannot see the fish. In contrast, string algae that grows off the rocks takes up nutrients like pea soup algae but usually leaves the water very clear.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please checke our website at Pond ann Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(23)

2006-09-18T09:40:00.000-07:00

29. Can the rocks go on the bottom as well as on the shelf?
Yes rocks can cover the entire pond. We often do this with a mix of large gravel and cobble (3-6”). We always mortar them in place. See question

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

WATER CHEMISTRY

Again, my background is in construction. What I’ve learned about water chemistry is piecemeal and incomplete. If anyone has any difference of opinion or spies incorrect information, please contact me so it can be corrected.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-09-11T09:33:00.000-07:00

28. What are the advantages and disadvantages of concreting in the rock?

When you say ‘concreting’, I assume you actually mean using mortar. Mortar is cement and sand like concrete but doesn’t have any gravel like concrete.

There are some obvious differences between mortaring and not mortaring the rocks in place. There is the up front cost of the mortar and extra labor. Also, mortared rock is usually much more stable than dry-stacked (mortar less) rock. The short-term and long-term effect of the mortar on the pond health is subtler. I feel the mortar plays an important role in pond health by taking up the spaces between rocks that would fill up with debris over the long haul. This debris is usually rich in nutrients that are difficult to trap in the filter where we can remove them from the system. On the other hand, mortar contains lime that raises the pH (alkalinity/acidity progression). Maintaining a balanced pH is important for water quality and algae prevention. Therefore, if mortar (or any concrete product) is used in large amounts, it may is necessary to treat the water with pH Down to maintain the proper range. As the lime leaches out over time, it will not be necessary to balance the pH to counteract the mortar. However, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH depending upon water chemistry and other factors. There is more on pH below.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(21)

2006-09-05T13:52:00.000-07:00

ROCKS

27. What kind of rocks do you use?

Because we are in the business of building ponds and fountains, I feel particularly lucky to be living an hour north of San Francisco. My favorite is a native rock called Sonoma fieldstone. It has been used for buildings and rock walls since the time of early settlers. It comes in sizes from softball size to boulders weighing 20 tons. It is roundish, verses flat. The biggest attraction, beside it’s cheap, is that it is irregular shaped and covered on one side with moss and lichens. When used in a water feature, it looks like it is alive and has been there for a long time.

To see what kind of rock you have available may require a field trip to some building material handlers. The shape of the rock you pick is very important. Each type has its pluses and minuses in how it works for a pond and cascade. Round rock, like a river wash, are inherently not very stable as compared to flat stone. On the other hand, you may need multiple courses (layers) of flat rock to the height you need on the shelf.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(20)

2006-08-29T09:45:00.000-07:00

26. How do I hide the liner around the edges?

Hiding the liner around the edges is one area where many pond kit instructions are very deficient. The most common way is to excavate our step around the pond about 3 inches below the intended water level. Often this shelf is 1 foot wide but this can be varied to fit the size of stone to be used. This shelf needs to be fairly level, within 1/2" inch. On the outside of the shelf, there needs to be dirt mounded up about 4 inches high. As the liner is put in the hole and on to the shelf it needs to drape over the ‘backsplash’. With this arrangement, we can fill the pond to about 2 inches above the shelf. This way, the bottoms of the rocks have their feet wet and there is no liner visible above the water line.

A common omission in pond kit instructions is this need for the liner to be vertical behind the rocks. If we did not have one, then we would not be able to have the rocks partly submerged without have water leak out from under the rocks.
There are other ways to hide the liner. Decks can be cantilevered over an edge of the pond. Care should still be taken to secure the line with the ‘backsplash’. Gradual slopes into the pond can be covered with gravel. This gravel should be buried to half its depth in mortar to prevent it from sliding into the pond.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountian Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(19)

2006-08-21T09:24:00.000-07:00

25. What are some tips on putting in the liner?

Putting in the liner is relatively easy if the pond design is not too complicated and the prep work has been done properly . Open the liner enough to check on the orientation of the roll. Place the liner on the side of the pond. With two or three people, unfold the liner over the pond excavation. If you need to move it from side to side, pick up the edge on the side where you want more material. We want to get air under the liner and not just drag it. All together now, pull the liner up to shoulder level three times. On the third time, gently pull the liner where you want it.

When the liner lies on the bottom of the pond, start pulling it down toward the middle until all the voids behind the liner are removed. It is not necessary to put water in the pond to get the liner to conform to the shape. We want a little slack in the liner. We don’t want the liner taut. Start on the middle of the long sides of the pond being sure the liner conforms closely to the shape of the hole but is not tight. Put a rock or two on each side to hold it in place. Do the same with the short sides.

The corners are a bit more difficult than the sides. You may want to trim off some of the excess in the corners but be sure not to trim off too much. We are going to make folds in the liner much like pleats in skirts. It is necessary to ‘read’ the liner to see where it naturally wants to have pleats. If you try to place them elsewhere, you will be fighting the liner. Start at the bottom and work up toward the top. All pleats should go up and down, not diagonally. In tight corners, there may be two or three pleats. Once you have the corner in place, put a rock or two on the liner to hold it in place. Once you have all four corners done, you may want to redo the first corner

For more information bout Pond and Fountain Pros, please check out our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

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Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(18)

2006-08-14T10:01:00.000-07:00

24. Do gopher eat liners?

I have seen gophers go through Permanlon but not through PVC of Hypolon. Another advantage of using Miri-Fi is that gophers don’t like it.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(17)

2006-08-09T13:02:00.000-07:00

LINER

23.What else do you to prepare the hole for the liner?

Preparing for the liner is very important. Once the hole has been shaped, carefully check for any sharp rocks or roots that are cut off and sticking into the hole. If you have to take out big rocks, you can back fill with clean, damp soil or mortar. We drape Miri-Fi (available at most places that sell rock and mortar; used in French drains) on the shelf and step sides. A 1/4” of sand can be placed on the shelf to hold it in place. You can also use duct tape. The bottom can be covered with sand and spread smoothly to fill any voids and corners.

Some people use old carpet, carpet backing or other materials. I don’t because of storage space and the off chance there is a stray staple.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros..

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(16)

2006-07-17T11:07:00.000-07:00

22. How do we hide the liner around the edge?

When we excavate the pond hole, the next thing is to cut a step around the entire pond. This step should be about a foot wide and about 3 inches deep. If you like, you can add dirt around the perimeter to make the 3-inch rise. The final product should look like a backsplash on the kitchen counter. The line will go on the step and over the backsplash. When we place rocks on the ledge and have the water level about 1.5” above the shelf, all the rocks will have their feet wet and none of the liner is visible above the water level. Be sure to include in you square footage when you dig the hole. It is a lot easier to dig more than to replace the dirt.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

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2006-07-10T12:47:00.000-07:00

CONSTRUCTION EXCAVATION

21. What do I do with the dirt I dig out of the hole? Can I use it for the waterfall?

You may be able to use the dirt for the waterfall but take care. One of the things most pond instructions don’t say is that if you want to use the dirt for the waterfall it needs to be well compacted as you place it for the waterfall. No, you cannot throw all the dirt in a pile and then compact it. You need to put the dirt in shallow lifts (layers) of 2-3 inches and compact it before you cover it. Big road equipment usually only work with lifts of 6” to ensure compaction.

If you don’t compact the dirt, it will settle naturally over time and you may find the water running backwards or sideways out of the waterfall

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(14)

2006-07-03T09:37:00.000-07:00

20. My husband and I have been having a discussion as to the difference between a waterfall and a creek bed. Can you help?

This sounds like a job for Dear Abby. Since you didn’t tell me who was taking what position I will venture to wade into the mire.

It is my understanding that to a waterfall the water must leave the surface of the rock and free-fall. In a creek bed or cascade, the water may tumble but does not leave the surface of the rock.

I’m glad you asked this question for I feel the word waterfall is used inaccurately in many cases where we have, in fact, a cascade.

For more information about Pond and Fountainp Pros, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(13)

2006-06-26T10:39:00.000-07:00

LOCATION

19. We want to put the pond under a big tree. Will this work?

Trees and bushes near trees can look very nice but will require additional care in construction and maintenance. When excavating the pond or creek bed, the roots can be in the way. To simply remove the roots may damage the tree. As the tree grows, its roots can damage poor concrete and mortared rockwork. Also, trees drop a lot of debris in the pond. Most pond kits do not have skimmers that would entrap any floating debris. Pine and redwood needles can be particularly difficult because they can pass through most skimmers and leaf baskets and lodge at the entrance to the pump impellor.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please cheche our website and Pond and Fountain Pros .

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(12)

2006-06-19T09:54:00.000-07:00

18. Our site is sloped. What do we have to do to keep the water in the pond?
There is a little extra work you have to do if the pond is on a slope. You need to cut-and-fill the site to level it out. The water will be level regardless of what we do and our rock shelf needs to be level. The actual elevation of the water level should be closer to the natural grade toward the low end. This means if you need to add 6” of material to build your shelf on the downhill side, you may need to cut 12” form the uphill side. You will need to take the dirt from the pond excavation, or other dirt, and build up the low side of the pond. Be sure to compact it as you go. Build up the dirt enough to build the backsplash (Question X). Grade the soil on the low side so the build up does not look so unnatural.

On the high side of the pond, you will need to cut out a little dirt to make this side level. The more you cut, the more support you will need to build back with rock to prevent the dirt from falling into the pond.

One last thing, the creek going into the pond should come straight down the slope into the pond. If you try to run the creek on the diagonal, it looks very unnatural and requires additional cutting and filling.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please visit our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder.

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2006-06-12T10:06:00.000-07:00

17. Can we have a small pond but a long creek?
One of the most common mistake beginners make is to want a small pond and a long creek bed. When you turn of the pump, you will need to take enough water out of the pond to fill up the creek bed. If it takes 60 gallons of water to fill up the creek bed before the water starts to reenter the pond, the water level of the pond will be drawn down by 60 gallons. With 7.5 gallons per cubic foot, the pond will be drawn down 8 cubic feet. If the pond is 6 feet by 8 feet (48 square feet), the water level will drop by about 2 inches. If you don’t start out with enough water, the liner below the shelf the rocks are on may be exposed.

Filling the pond 2 inches to make up the water needed for the creek bed would probably work until you turn off the pump. When the pump is turned off, the water from the creek bed will return to the pond so you now have 60 more than you started with. If you haven’t planned for it, much of this water will too much for the pond to handle and you will have a big wet spot somewhere.

For more informatio about Pond and Fountain Pros, Please cheche our websit at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(10)

2006-06-01T11:12:00.000-07:00

16. How does the pond shape effect how successfully the liner can go in?

The pond shape and configuration has a great deal to do with how well the liner fits in the pond excavation. In any real complicated pond design, especially those with sharp corners, it is extremely difficult to get the liner to work easily. When installing the liner, we are taking a flat object (the liner) and trying to get it conform the opening. The more complicated the design, the more difficulty in installing the liner. In an ‘U’ shaped pond for example, the liner would have to be pulled down on the lower part of the ‘U’ so there is enough material to get into the two, top arms of the ‘U’. To test your design, consider building a small mockup of your design in the dirt or wet sand and see how easily it is to get a piece of plastic to conform. Another way to visualize this is to take a piece of newspaper and get it to conform to half a basketball, for example. You will need to make folds (pleats) to get the paper to fit. Once you do this and make it pretty (uniform pleats), trim off excess paper and remove the ball.

Many people are concerned that a simplified pond design will mean a very boring pond. A line of rocks, all the same size, around a pond is referred to as ‘a string of pearls’ and can be very boring. However, the pond can be made a lot more interesting by having different size rocks with some of them forward and some of them back on the ledge. In addition, plants in the pond and outside the rock can go a long way to softening the ‘string of pearls’.

For more imformation about Pond and Fountain Pros, please visit our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(9)

2006-05-26T13:23:00.000-07:00

DESIGN

15. What pond shapes of pond are best?

Simple pond designs are easiest to build. When using a liner for a pond, we are taking a flat object and getting it to conform to an irregular hole-in-the-ground. If the pond were bowl shaped, we can fold the excess liner so it fits into the hole snuggly with out any tension on the liner. If we have a complicated design, it is necessary to pull the liner down so there is enough material to fit into some of the recesses.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please visit our websit atPond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(8)

2006-05-22T10:35:00.000-07:00

BACTERIUM & CHEMICALS

14. Why do we want to add bacterium? What is the bacterium anyway?
Almost any pond kit will have a combination of bacterium and enzymes included in it. Since we are trying to control the algae and make the water safe for the fish it is important what bacteria you use. Exact formulas are trade secrets. However, something to look for if you can find it is to compare the count in millions per gram. The powder you see is often cheese whey to support the bacterium. I recommend you shop around when you need to replace the bacteria.

As the bacterium multiply they consume nutrients in the water. If they did not, the nutrients would build up and become toxic to the fish. Although the bacteria grow on every surface in the pond, we colonize the bacterium in a biological filter so we can wash the filter and conveniently remove the nutrients from the water.

Bacteria are dependent upon nutrients, sunlight and temperature. Controlling any or all of these factors will help us limit the algae. As water temperature retreats into the 50s in the fall, bacteria vigor is greatly reduced so it is wasteful to add any until spring.

Some people say adding bacteria is not necessary. To a point, I agree. There is a plethora of bacterium naturally in the air, in the plant dirt and even on the fish. I recommend adding bacteria because we have better control of what bacteria colonizes in the pond. If we were to expose flour and water to the air you will get enough bacteria and yeasts out of the air to eventually get sourdough bread. For the best bread though we would want to introduce a top grade culture just like we do in the pond.

There is a lot more about bacteria and pond chemicals in the maintenance section. br/>

For more informaiton about pond and fountain, please check our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(7)

2006-05-15T09:40:00.000-07:00

ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT

12. Why would I want an ultraviolet light?
An ultraviolet light (UV) is used to kill the free-floating alga that passes through it. It will not have any effect on string algae that is anchored on the rocks and pond sides.

13. How are UV lights rated?
It is important to size the light properly. The degree of effectiveness is based on size, strength and length of exposure. There are feuds going on in the UV world because some report the strength of a new bulb versus others that rate their bulbs after they have already lost some of their strength. Don’t undersize the UV light. It is wasting money.

For more information about Pond and Fountain Pros, please visit our website at Pond and Fountain Pros.
Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(6)

2006-05-08T10:18:00.000-07:00

SKIMMERS

11. Some pond kits have a skimmer with the pump in the bottom of it. What do you think of these systems?
A skimmer will draw most of the water off the surface of the pond and should catch almost everything that falls into the pond that floats. It is the first line of pond maintenance. Many pond kits do not have any skimmer. Kits for bigger ponds may have a skimmer with the pump inside works pretty well as the skimmer. Pump-in-skimmer pond kits usually have a box filter at the top of the waterfall. These filters are difficult to hide and when they need to be cleaned, they too can be very messy. They are much easier to clean than in-pond filters.
However, these systems do not take any water off the bottom of the pond. We would prefer a system that draws water from both the surface and the bottom. Bigger ponds often have systems that can easily change the ratio of how much money is taken from the surface vs. bottom so there is built-in flexibility.

For more information, please visit our websit at Pond and Fountain Pros
Than you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(5)

2006-05-01T10:05:00.000-07:00

FILTERS

10. What is a biological filter? I didn’t even know my biology needed filtration.
Any decent pond kit will have a combination biological and mechanical filter. A mechanical filter is usually some kind of matting. This also acts as a biological filter. A biological filter provides lots of surface area that is where we colonize bacteria. These bacteria break down the fish waste and other toxins that become the food for algae or can build up and become toxic for the fish. There are many questions further down covering biological filtration.

When shopping for a pond kit though, the important issue is the filter located in the pond or outside of the pond. Be sure you have good access to the filter. (See Maintenance for more discussion of filter care that includes regular, and often weekly, cleaning of the filter.) If the filter is located in the pond, it will require you, or someone, to pull it out of the pond. Since it can be very heavy, it often spills; dumping the muck back into the water defeating the purpose of removing it. Other filters are in the basin of the waterfall. I find them only slightly more convenient than if it were in the pond.

We prefer filters that are located between the pond and the waterfall. Often they can be dug part way into the back of the waterfall to partially conceal it The best type of filter is one with a back wash valve attached to it. The backwashing is very quick and the refuse goes out a waste pipe to a location of your choosing. I have not found any for very small ponds. The smallest is for a pond about 1500 gallons. The initial cost is more but maintenance is a great deal easier.

For more information about Pond and Fountain, please visit our websit Pond and Fountain Pros

Than you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(4)

2006-04-26T12:25:00.000-07:00

7. Why do you say it is absolutely essential to have the pump hooked up to a GFI? What is a GFI?

A GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) is a device that cuts the electrical current when there is even a slight loss of current. These are found in many kitchens and baths where water is present. They have a ‘Test’ and ‘Reset’ buttons on the face. GFIs differ from a fuses or circuit breaker in that these devices interrupt the current when they overheat. This may take a second or two, but this can be a lifetime if someone is in contact with a hot wire. There are usually many inexpensive ways to include a GFI.

8. Must I run the pump 24/7? Even in the winter?

In warmer weather, pumps should be run 24/7 to provide aeration. (Warm water holds less oxygen that cold water) In addition, the bacteria we are trying to colonize in the filter start to die after about 4 hours if they don’t get oxygenated water. In cold weather when the water temperature is 55 degrees or colder it is not important to run the pump all the time although you may want to if you have a skimmer. However, when you start up the system in spring you will need to reseed with bacteria.

9. Is there a rule-of-thumb on how to estimate how much water I what on the waterfall?
A good estimate is that for a waterfall a foot wide with water ¼ of an inch thick requires about 10 gallons per minute. Form this you can extrapolate to other widths and depths

For more information about pond and fountain, please visit my website Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(3)

2006-04-17T12:35:00.000-07:00

4. My building material store has many pond books on pond building. How good are they?
Like pond kits themselves, pond books are all over the place. However, for the price they are all a cheap education and there are many things to be learned and some to be discarded. The more you know before you buy a pond kit the better your pond will be. By having input from many sources you can pick and choose how to design and build your pond.

LINER

5. What are the differences in liners?

Most pond kits come with a 20-mil PVC liner. This is a good material for a simple pond. It is easy to work with and fairly durable. But, I don’t use it. I prefer the 30-mil PVC liner. It is 50% thicker and even more than 50% stronger. Other types of commonly used liner include EPDM (rubber) and for heavy-duty use, Hypolon.
Most types of liner are probably just as adequate. The key to a successful liner installation is in the preparation before the liner goes in and to protect the liner while placing rocks. See further down for tips on actual construction

PUMPS

6. I see some pumps have oil and others don’t. What is the difference?

The older style submersible pumps have oil in them for lubrication and to disperse heat. Newer pump have a plastic barrier between the stationary motor part and the rotating pump part and do not require oil..
Both styles have advantages and disadvantages. Pump are rated by how much water they pump to a height of one foot. Naturally the higher we pump the water the less water we are able to pump. A pump with oil will usually do a better job at pumping to a greater height. Oil-less pumps loose their oomph faster than oil-filled pumps. If you want to pump water up 4 or 5 feet the difference in flow from the two types of pumps can be very different. However, oil-less pumps use less electricity and will not leak oil in the pond.
Pump kit boxes should have what kind of pump it includes and show a graph of gallons per minute versus height. Compare them closely based on your design.

For more information about pond and fountain, please visit my website Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(2)

2006-04-10T10:17:00.000-07:00

POND KITS

1. When you are comparing pond kits, what are you looking for?We are not going to talk about individual brands of pond kits. There are too many brands and without buying them, I don’t have access to compare them. I will address the individual components such as liner, pumps, filters, chemicals and price. Another important component that will be addressed is the quality of the instructions.

2. How can you compare prices of the multitude of pond kits that are out there?
I can’t, but you can and should. There is a wide range of product vs. price. Look at any guarantees there may be for liner and pump. With many pond kits, it is as cheap or cheaper to buy the components individually rather than as a kit. What you don’t get are the fancy packaging and lousy instructions.

3. How important are the instructions included in the pond kit?

Hopefully, the most important object in any pond kit are the instructions, either written or video. Many pond kit instructions, I am convinced, are written by people who have not built many, if any, ponds. If possible, ask to see the instructions or watch the video before you buy anything.
a) Do the instructions make sense to you?
b) Do they answer any questions you already have?
c) Do they give an honest discussion of maintenance or do skim over it? If they were not honest enough to discuss maintenance, why do you think their discussion about construction would be any more complete?
d) Do they mention that if you use the dirt from the hole for the waterfall it needs to well compacted or in a year the water will sideways or backwards? I thought not.
e) A good pond design includes digging a step around the pond about 3 inches below the water level. This is so when the rock are placed on it the bottom of the rocks are underwater. This looks better as you don’t see a ring of liner above the water and the liner is not exposed directly to the sun.

For more information about pond and fountain, please visit my website Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder

52 Tips for Selecting a Pond kit, Pond Construction and Maintenance(1)

2006-04-04T10:25:00.000-07:00

Ponds are very popular right now. Many people wanting ponds are searching the inter net to buy pond kits. There is a wide range in the quality and value of the pond kits on the market. Most kits have the makings for a small, cheap pond.

We have been building, repairing and maintaining ponds and fountains professionally for over 15 years. We do not sell pond kits. None. Nada. Zip. For the health of the industry, though, we are answering 52 of the most commonly asked questions regarding how to buy a pond kit, tips for building and how to maintain the pond after it is built.

Finally, don’t be surprised if building the pond takes you longer than the instructions say. The problem is probably with the instructions, not you. I built a pond that was used in an instructional video. My crew and I would work while the ‘typical middle-class couple’ would sit and drink wine. When we were ready to film the next phase, they would put their gloves on and pick up a shovel. Hopefully though, we will give you enough information and tips that you can have fun building your pond and enjoy it for many years to come.

For more information about pond and fountain, please visit my website Pond and Fountain Pros.

Thank you!.

Jim Wilder

All about Pond and Fountain

2006-03-30T13:12:00.000-08:00

Hi,

My name is Jim Wilder. I am a licensed pond and fountain builder with 12 years experience.

For more information about how to choose a pond and fountain to fit your home style, please visit my company's website Pond and Fountain Pros. Or contact with me at 707-527-0125 or jim@pfpros.com.

Thank you!

Jim Wilder